ONCE UPON A TIME A LONG TIME AGO I LIVED IN ITALY WITH MY ITALIAN AND TWO OF HIS SISTERS.
WE HAD BEEN MARRIED IN ITALY FIVE YEARS PRIOR.
IT WAS A NEW WAY OF LIVING FOR ME AND SCARY AND LONELY.
WE LIVED UP ON A HILL WITH OTHER HOMES NEW BY ITALIAN STANDARDS.
I HAD TO LEARN HOW TO DRIVE A STICK SHIFT!
AS I SAID WE LIVED ON A HILL, SO TO GO ANYWHERE WE HAD TO GO DOWN THE HILL.TO GET TO DOWNTOWN FLORENCE IT TOOK AT LEAST 20 MINUTES MORE IF YOU WANTED TO PARK.THERE WERE MEN STANDING NOT IN A BOOTH BUT STANDING IN THE PARKING AREA.FIRST YOU HAD TO GET THEIR ATTENTION THEN HE WOULD FIND YOU A SPOT.THAT COULD TAKE AWHILE!IF YOU HAD TO RUN A QUICK ERRAND YOU COULD DOUBLE PARK!
GUESS HE KNEW THE CARS PARKED THERE WERE THERE FOR THE DAY!
THIS WAS RIGHT ON THE ARNO THE FAMOUS RIVER THAT HOLDS THE PONTE VECCHIO.
ONE OF THE FUN STORIES WAS THE ITALIAN WAS DRIVING AND HE CAME TO A STOP SIGN AND HE STOPPED.HIS MOTHER WHO WAS IN THE FRONT SEAT SMOKING WHICH WAS MAKING ME SO SICK……..SHE SAID TO HIM
“WHY ARE YOU STOPPING??”
HIS REPLY WAS IT SAYS SO!
THERE IS A STOP SIGN!.
HER REPLY WAS “BUT YOU CAN SEE NO ONE IS COMING!”
I ALSO LEARNED VERY FAST NEVER TO STOP FOR PEOPLE IN A CROSSWALK OR WHO WERE ON THE SIDEWALK READY TO CROSS, BECAUSE THE CARS BEHIND YOU WOULD REAR END YOU!
TO PEEK IN YOUR REARVIEW MIRROR YOU WOULD SEE HANDS UP YELLING WHAT ARE YOU DOING!!
I LEARNED THAT LESSON FAST!
THE ROAD UP THE HILL AND DOWN WAS TWO LANES ONE UP AND ONE DOWN!IF YOU WENT OVER THE EDGE THAT WOULD NOT BE GOOD AS IT WAS A SHEAR DROP!PEOPLE DROVE FAST EVEN IF IT WAS A CURVE……..I NEVER DID THAT!
AS I WOULD DRIVE MY BOYS TO SCHOOL I WOULD ASK THEM QUESTIONS LIKE:
WHO MADE THE DUOMO?
WHATS THE NAME OF THE FAMOUS BRIDGE OVER THE ARNO?
WHO MADE THE DAVID?
THEY LEARN THOSE AS WE DID IT EVERY DAY……THE NINJA TURTLES WERE POPULAR THAN AND I REMEMBER HELPING THEM WITH THE DAVID QUESTION AS ONE WAS NAMED MICHAELANGELO!
WINE WAS AN OUTING TO PROCURE!ONE DROVE TO THE WINERY WITH BOTTLES IN THEIR TRUNKS.YOU KNOW THE ONES THAT COST A FORTUNE NOW A DAYS. THOSE GREEN ONES……THEY WOULD BE IN BASKETS!
FIRST YOU WOULD GO INSIDE AND YOU WOULD BE THE ONLY ONES THERE.
YOU COULD TASTE THE WINE FROM A GLASS on a pedestal.
THAT EVERYONE WHO PURCHASED WINE WOULD TRY!
I think it was a faucet!
NO DISINFECTING BACK IN THE DAY…….
A MAN IN A SUIT WOULD WATCH OVER YOU AS YOU BROUGHT THE HOSE TO THE CAR.
THATS RIGHT A HOSE OUTSIDE TO YOUR CAR WHERE YOU WOULD PUMP THE WINE INTO YOUR BOTTLES.
JUST LIKE GASOLINE.
THE ITALIAN AT 31 YEARS OF AGE.
ONCE YOU ARRIVED HOME YOU WOULD SYPHON THE WINE FROM THE BIG GREEN BOTTLES TO THE TABLE BOTTLES.
IN THIS CASE A PLASTIC CONTAINER.
YOU COULD FIT MORE THAT WAY IN THOSE SMALL CARS.
HERE I am GIVING IT AGO THE FIRST TIME.
I REMEMBER THINKING THIS IS SO FUNNY!
HERE I AM SYPHONING WITH A HOSE TO THE TABLE BOTTLES.
YES IF YOU WERE ME YOU WOULD GET A SIP OF VINO IN YOUR MOUTH!
I THINK THEN YOU HAD TO COVER THE OPENING WITH YOUR FINGER TO GET IT UPSIDE DOWN TO POUR INTO THE WINE BOTTLES.
THEN A WAX WAS PUT ON TOP OF EACH BOTTLE TO SEAL IT.
CAN YOU SEE BEHIND ME THE YELLOW CRATES FOR BOTTLES?
THEN THEY WOULD GET STACKED IN THE SHED UNTIL THEY WERE NEEDED.
THIS WAS LIFE IN THE TUSCAN HILLS.
I HAVE TO SAY I LOVED IT AND DID NOT WANT TO COME BACK TO CALIFORNIA.
SO, I PLAYED ITALIAN MUSIC IN MY CAR AND IN THE HOUSE.
I BROUGHT BACK ALL MY FINDS FROM THE CITY TO THE HILLS IN THE COUNTRY.
THERE WAS NO ONE ELSE LIKE ME!
STILL THE SAME NO ONE ELSE LIKE ME!!
IT WAS STILL LIRE FOR THE MONEY NOT EURO’S.
PEOPLE DROPPED IN UNEXPECTEDLY.
WE BOUGHT OUR EGGS FROM THE NEIGHBOR OVER THE FENCE!
MATTRESSES WERE MADE DOWN THE STREET FROM OUR HOUSE…THEY STUFFED THEM WITH WOOL.
EVERY SO OFTEN YOU WOULD HAVE IT FLUFFED!
A DOUBLE OR KING BED DIDNOT EXSIST.
THE QUEEN WAS TWO TWIN MATTRESSES.
THE KITCHEN DIDNOT COME WITH A HOUSE IF YOU WERE BUYING IT.
YOU HAD TO BRING YOUR OWN!
MOST KITCHENS WERE ON WHEELS……..AND NOT VERY PRETTY.
YOU HAD TO SWEEP THE FLOORS AT LEAST THE KITCHEN EVERY DAY.
NO DRYERS………..ALL THE LAUNDRY WAS HUNG TO DRY!
BECAUSE THE WATER WAS SO HARD THE SHEETS AND UNDERWEAR NEEDED TO BE IRONED PLUS TOWELS!
I KNOW WHAT YOU’RE THINKING…………..
BUT IT WAS WORTH IT!
I WOULD DO IT AGAIN IN A HEART BEAT!
THIS LITTLE GUY HAD LEFT HOME FOR TWO MONTHS!
WE ARE HAPPY HE IS BACK THANKS TO A NEIGHBOR WHO SAW HIM IN THEIR GARDEN!
THANK YOU NUNILO for the hand painted card of THEODORE & WINSTON and BANKSY and two of my chickens!
WHO can find the crickets or grasshoppers?
YOU ARE SO KIND TO REMEMBER MY DAY……which is FRIDAY, JULY 22…….I will be 62 years old!
WHERE OH WHERE DID THAT TIME GO…….
kim says
LOVED this post! What cute photos.. Love you and you look like you stepped out of 1980’s Vogue in a Laura Biagiotti sweater. What a cool idea about the wine.. and greener. The story about driving down the hill just gives me the chills. I am not wanting to drive in Italy. They told me crossing the street just keep going and look at the eyes of the driver never stop in the road.. essentially suicide.. It’s nuts those ways. I love everything else though.. Except the no A/C.. Love these and hoping Friday is fun and can’t wait to celebrate you soon!! xo
LA CONTESSA says
NO A/C is right KIM it’s BAD FOR THE LIVER!!!!!!!!!
DIDn’T YOU KNOW?!!!
AS far as the sweater yep that would have been era 1980’s I believe. I.MAGNIN’s.I use to shop in the mens department for sweaters as I wanted them big and they were cheaper!Of course always on SALE!
I went into my closet yesterday to see and YEP I STILL HAVE IT!!
NO LABEL INSIDE BUT ITS AS PRISTINE AS THE DAY I BOUGHT IT!
MY MOTHER ALWAYS SAID,” BUY THE GOOD STUFF(ON SALE OF COURSE)AS IT WILL LAST A LIFETIME!”
I SOMETIMES LISTEN TO MY MOTHER!!!!!!!
BIG HUG
XXX
Rita says
I loved reading about your time in Italy. Reminded me of crossing a major road in Rome back in 1994 and just walking out and sticking my hand out in a stop position (like my cousins had advised) and it worked. The cars stopped and you finished crossing the road. I still do that today back home in Australia. Seeing the wine bottles reminded my of my dad, who made his own wine and to this day the best wine I’ve had, especially in summer when he would cut a peach into his wine and after it had sat for a little while we would get to eat it. Happy Birthday for Friday, hope you have a wonderful day celebrating.
LA CONTESSA says
RITA…….the PEACH THING WAS DONE IN OUR HOME TOO!
XXX
Barb says
I adore your blog. I adore your stories. I wish you a very happy 62nd trip around the sun. I have mine in August. 62 is a good age, I think.
LA CONTESSA says
OH LETS HOPE……………
HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU AS WELL………….
MANY THANKS FOR WRITING YOU LIKE MY STORIES AND MY BLOG!
I KEEP HEARING I AM UNIQUE WHICH I DONOT SEE BUT I MUST BE AS I HEAR IT A LOT!!!
XXX
Andrea Serrahn says
Love the tribute to your Tuscan life! In India there are mattress fluffers who alert their arrival with a twanging sound of their tools of he trade. It was a big bow plucked like a harp string. Such a unique notification that you could have the opportunity to remove the lumps from your cotton filled mattress. Now as we age, lumps and bumps are part of the deal! Happy Birthday to a colorful woman and the life you lead!
LA CONTESSA says
YES, I do BELIEVE THEY CAME TO THE HOUSE OF COURSE AS THE MATTRESSES WOULD BE TO AWKWARD TO TAKE IN!
I LOVED INDIA WHEN I VISITED IN 1981……what a learning EXPERIENCE!
THANK YOU MY LIFE IS NO DIFFERENT THEN YOURS!!
XXX
fifi says
What a lovely story!~ Life was simpler then. It was the best of times. Yes, my Contessa, where did the years go??? Missing my years going back in Paris too but taking comfort in memories. Feeling rather nostalgic these days. Wondering how many years I have left (I turned 77 in May) but intending to make the most and the best of them. Wishing you, my beautiful friend, a happy birthday and many many more. Ciao bella. xoxoxoxo
LA CONTESSA says
OH FIFI NICE TO HEAR FROM YOU!
WHAT ARE YOU WORKING ON THESE DAYS?
I HOPE FLORIDA IS BEING KIND TO YOU THE SECOND TIME AROUND!
YOU MY LOVELY FIFI HAVE MANY YEARS AHEAD AS THE STAMINA AND WORK YOU DO HAS KEPT YOU IN GREAT SHAPE!
I WILL CALL YOU SOON!
WE MUST CATCH UP!!
XOXOX
Dawn Darveau says
Wishing you a Happy Birthday in advance of the big day. I too turned 62 this year and wonder where the time has gone. I too lived in Europe and many places over the years and have fond memories of those places. We were lucky to have had those experiences. Wishing you everything wonderful for your birthday!
LA CONTESSA says
YES DAWN YOU ARE RIGHT!
IT MADE ME APPRECIATE HOW EVERYTHING OPERATED SO MUCH MORE EFFICIENTLY AND MORE EASE IN THE USA.
TO PAY BILLS IN ITALIA ONE HAD TO TAKE A WAD OF CASH AND STAND IN LINE AT THE POST OFFICE!EVERY MONTH!
A MORTGAGE ON A HOUSE WAS ONLY FOR 10 YEARS……
MOST PEOLE PAID CASH OR LIVED WITH FAMILY.
NO OPEN HOUSES THERE!
XXX
Lee says
Such a lovely experience. Thank you for sharing! And a very Happy Birthday!
LA CONTESSA says
THANK YOU!
XXX
Lee says
Such a lovely experience. Thank you for sharing! And a very Happy Birthday! Wishing you health and happiness!
Rita says
Happy Birthday Elizabeth! This is one of my favorites posts you have shared with us. Wow – the photos and the way of life and of course you made your own home in the hills here – love it all! You are one of a kind – they broke the mold – you make me smile, Love, Rita PS the smile on your husband’s face is the BEST – he is looking at you with amore
LA CONTESSA says
NOW I AM THINKING I NEED TO DO A POST ON ITALIAN LIVING PART TWO!!!AS I THINK BACK AND THE SITUATION I BELIEVE THIS WAS TAKEN BEFORE SONS WERE BORN.AS WE WOULD GO BACK AT CHRISTMAS TIME TO VISIT THE FAMILY!
XXX
Susan says
Wishing you all the best. Your life in Italy sounds delightful and totally wonderful. Filled with love and great experiences. So many great memories. You could write a book. Happy B-day!
LA CONTESSA says
SUSAN I HAVE HEARD THAT BEFORE……..
BUT I AM NOT SO SURE I WOULD HAVE ENOUGH TO FILL A BOOK!
THANK YOU THAT IS A BIG COMPLIMENT!
XXX
Kathy L from MA says
What a life-enriching experience living in Italy! Thank you for sharing so many details. I don’t think I could have tried the wine from a communal glass at the winery. Maybe some day you will share the story and some details about why and when you and your family moved to the US. I am interested in knowing what the Italian and your boys thought of living in the US. I hope that your birthday this week is as special as you!
LA CONTESSA says
DEAR KATHY,
THE BOYS WERE BORN IN SAN FRANCISCO.
THE ITALIAN CAME OVER FROM ITALY IN 1984…….
WE WERE MARRIED IN 1986.
HE LOVED IT AS HE STAYED.
AT THE TIME WE WERE NOT SO WORRIED ABOUT GERMS ETC NOR COVID!IT WAS A GOOD LAUGH FOR ME!
MY SONS HAVE GOOD MEMORIES OF ITALIAN LIVING AND AT A MOMENTS NOTICE CAN BREAK INTO ITALIAN SPEAKING MEN!AS THEIR PAPA ONLY SPOKE TO THEM IN ITALIAN AS CHILDREN.
XXX
Mumbai says
not only for yourself, you also brought back very nice memories for me. In the small villages, deep inside Spain, wine is still sold and tasted in this way today. Unfortunately there are only a few bottles in the shops that are sealed with cork and wax… so stylish and what a difference.
Many good wishes for you, dear Contessa, in advance for health and luck.
LA CONTESSA says
SO HAPPY I COULD TAKE YOU BACK IN TIME!
EUROPE WILL ALWAYS HAVE A SPECIAL PLACE IN MY HEART!
IT SURE BEATS THE USA AT THIS TIME IN LIFE.
XXX
PS. I HAVE HEARD THAT CORK TREES ARE IN A DECLINE!
Dolores Forsythe says
Thank you for sharing this beautiful story. I can see why you were so happy there, What an adventure for a young woman. This gave me an insight into why you are such a generous adventuresome woman now
Michele says
LOVED hearing about your memories of living in Italy and seeing pictures of you and your Handsome Italian from those days! I agree that you should write a book – so many adventures and your unique style.
I am SO happy and relieved to hear Theodore made it back home just in time for your BD – Yay!
Spoil yourself for your birthday weekend!
Hugs
M
1010ParkPlace says
What an adventure, living in Italy for all those years! Sharing stories like this, it’s easy to see how that time shaped the woman you are now. Siphoning wine… I imagine your shoes and clothes were stippled with red wine! And instead of saying, “That bottle was a very good year,” you might say, “That plastic container was a very good year!” xoxox, Brenda
Penny says
Syphoning wine while wearing all white. That is confidence! I enjoyed this very much.
MaryAnn says
I loved this post. Your life living in Italy sounded beautiful & dreamy to me. I loved my trip to Italy several years ago. I love everything about the culture & the people. How fortunate for you to experience living in Italy. Thank you for sharing. I always look forward to your posts. I wish you every happiness on your birthday. Enjoy your special day.
Carol says
Your pictures and stories are priceless! Thanks for sharing them, and Happy Birthday????
Carol says
Oops. The question marks were supposed to be birthday emojis.
LA CONTESSA says
EMOGJI’s DONOT TAKE HERE!
I SHALL TURN THEM INTO !!!!!
XXX
Leslie Lord says
How lovely your memories of Tuscany must be! Thank you for sharing these snippets with us.
Good to hear that your kitty has returned home. I wonder what adventures he had.
Happy birthday dear Elizabeth! ??
Dee Black says
Welcome Home Theodore! Happy Birthday Contessa, hope it’s a fun one. The present of the art piece-is spectacular. What a present.
So Italy is nice, but….cannot imagine it better than your home near SF. I’m thinking you were a newlywed and new mother and this time in a woman’s life is forever, special. We tend to remember with such fondness. Although I’m convinced you would return in a second. Also, you are truly a romantic in all things it appears. So a perfect fit, Italy. However, living with husbands two sisters. Absolutely not honeymoon over immediately, for me! I don’t care how cute the Italian. Note to self: never marry an Italian (in my second life).
Happy Birthday again and cheers to a beautiful life!
What a fun blog.
Ms. Mary says
A lovely and heart-filling post. I know your memories of Italian life are so special. 🙂
Happiest of birthdays to you- <3 <3 <3
Trish says
The simple life! Sounds like a slower pace that had you connected to your community, the people you love, and natures bounty. So romantic!
What made you decide to move back to the US? I wonder how your Italian found life in California. More stories please…
Dora Renata Pala says
Ciao Elisabeth
Grazie delle tue belle parole sua tua esperienza di vita in Italia,non è sempre tutto positivo ,ma ci proviamo!!!!!!!Buon Compleanno cara.????
Katharine says
O mio dio…. what a stroll down memory lane. I remember meeting you at PlayGroup… Nicholas, your youngest had curls down below his shoulders… he was 2, I asked “how old is she?” Later I learned that you went home and told The Italian “I met a girl from Berkeley…. but I don’t think we’ll be friends.” You were SO WRONG ! I watched you in those years to come, chasing people in ESSELUNGA whose grocery lists you would glance at, see they were written in English, prompting you to say “HELLO !!” or those people who had license plates on their cars that betrayed that they spoke English who you’d chase down to say “HELLO !” You were always cultivating COMMUNITY…. doing your best to make ITALY your HOME because even though in the end, you never wanted to leave, in the beginning it was HARD. Especially all those DUST BUNNIES everywhere…. when you had to learn to vacuum not only the rugs, but also the FLOORS ! You could never understand how from one day to the next so much dust could accumulate !!
You had to be the Mamma of the house…. do all the grocery shopping for not only your family, but for the sisters-in-law who were part of the reason you’d moved here. You found Esselunga in Novoli…. the biggest grocery store in town, with underground parking. You taught me that if you went to -2 there were always places. I still do that today…. at my own Esselunga (Gignora though… not Novoli) and I always think of you as I drive down that ramp to -2.
Remember the geese ? You’d come home from Esselunga and pull out the packaged lettuce – not bagged lettuce… that didn’t exist yet, but the heads of lettuce packaged in two, in a plastic basin covered in cellophane – and you’d yell “COME TO MAMMA” and those geese would come running up to the window from which you’d throw down the greens.
Then came the time to take you to the airport…. cuz work for The Italian was NOT to be had here in economically strapped Italy (they DID offer him a job collecting trash… remember??), so despite your acquired love for the country and its ways and all the friendships you’d forged here, it was time to go back to CA: We took you down to Rome in two cars, and you sweet talked your way into boarding the plane with THIRTEEN BAGS !!! telling them “I’m forced to go back, I don’t want to go… you just have to help me” and those were the days when people understood people and they didn’t charge you an extra dime.
Lots of time has gone by but you’re still here in spirit and your love for this crazy country is still alive, as is the love your friends all have for YOU living far away from us.
Un abbraccio grande grande….
Sandra Sallin says
Oh, this was delightful. Loved every minute. More please. I remember we couldn’t wait until you were 60 and could be in Ari Seth Cohen’s Blog. Look at you now. Yes, please go back and tell us more stories from your time in Italy. I was thinking maybe you could move back? 6 months there and 6 months here?
Laurie says
Love these stories! I always wondered how the wine got into the home bottles. Ugh, the laundry, though. Glad your cat is back.
Happiest Birthday to you on Friday! Hope you have an Italian kind of day.
Heidi says
Hi Elizabeth,
What fun to read about your adventures living in Italy. Funny how some of the small everyday things like driving up and down an hill stay with us for so long. I still remember so many things about living in Germany, and I was so young! But the newness of everything sticks with a person, and a different way of life can change you, too. In a good way I think!
I love the photos, you are like a fashion model showing how it’s done with the wine!
Thanks for sharing your memories!
Looking forward to celebrating your birthday soon.
Xo Heidi
PPP says
Ma Chere Contessa,
Happy Birthday!
You don’t look 62… no way. You remain a youthful beauty always with a warm and generous heart.?
I love this Italian tale with the gorgeous Italian hubby and an earlier you. It was such a delightful story with
hilarious reveals of life in the Tuscan hills. I just loved all of it… so well told as if we were there with you siphoning the wine. I can see that you were in your element and surely would have stayed enjoying Italy…
One of your best blogs!!!
More please! ??
Love,
PPP
Juliet says
Contessa! I can’t believe you’re syphoning red wine wearing white! And looking fabulous! What a fascinating and different life in the hills of Italy. But the driving … oh my gosh. Dangerous!!! Love all the photos from a different era of the Contessa and her Italian. Delighted Theodore made it home – what a relief – just in time to for your birthday. Feels like it was just yesterday we were celebrating your 61st! xo
Judy says
Dear Contessa What a delightful post and how happy you looked. How brave you were in a new country and a new husband, life must have been hard. But weren’t we strong when we were young, where did it all go? Now all I can do is a short walk and I am tired ! But I am 83 and still enjoying gardens and clothes and jewellery! And I simply love reading your colourful beautiful posts. Many happy returns for your birthday on Friday and love from Brighton UK . Best wishes from Judy x
Jacqueline says
How wonderful to have lived in Florence Elizabeth. I LOVE Florence and have been for or five times. It must have been such a change in lifestyle for you ….. did you speak any Italian ? Love the old photographs of you all.
Wishing you a very Happy 62nd Birthday on Friday ….. Many Happy Returns of the day. XXXX
Jill James says
It was simply wonderful reading more about your day to day life of your time living in Italy. The wine photos and you siphoning whilst wearing white made me smile.I can only imagine the readjustments you had to make when you arrived. Well done on learning to drive a stick shift .
Wishing you a very Happy Birthday , may the coming year be filled with health and happiness. xxx
Lynda says
Love hearing your stories. Happy Birthday a bit early. Hope you have a great day!
Robin says
Such a lovely post!! I love hearing more about your life in Toscana. In all my years in Italy, I have never “pumped” vino or filled individual bottles.
I think of you every time I am in Esselunga Novoli. I am sure it is very much the same now, as when you shopped.
Thanks for sharing all of this, and your love for all things Italian, including GP {so handsome}!
Bacione, Robin
Suzi says
Hello Contessa,
In regard to your last rant, I must say I could have supplied reams of factual rebuttals to your opinions., but to quote Socrates,
“When the debate is lost, slander becomes the tool of the losers.” Also the mouth should have three gatekeepers,
Is it true?
Is it kind?
Is it necessary?
Unfortunately, I am doing as you told me to do if I didn’t agree with you,..going, going, gone.
Sad
Nunilo says
Ohhh dear Contessa, thank you for publishing this little memory of your pets. sent with love from Spain!!
Have a nice day!!!
Nunilo